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Towns of The Isle of ManAcknowledgements to "Isle of Man Scenic Guide" by The Manx Experience for these town descriptions.The Island's main centers are... DOUGLAS AND ONCHAN LAXEY RAMSEY PEEL PORT ERIN PORT ST. MARY CASTLETOWN ST. JOHNS DOUGLAS and ONCHAN Douglas, since 1869, has been the Island's capital and the main tourist and commercial centre. Here, too, are the Legislative Buildings of its ancient parliament Tynwald whose origins go back over a thousand years when the Island became a Viking kingdom. The magnificent sweep of Douglas Bay, against the background of green hills, has a charm hard to equal anywhere. Douglas was a pioneer in illuminations and at night presents a scene of spectacular beauty, never to be forgotten. As the tourist industry developed rapidly in the latter half of the nineteenth century rows of hotels and boarding houses sprang up along the sea front. The sea was restrained by construction of promenades which provide a one and a half mile stroll along the front to 'take the air' and see the sights. One of these is the Tower of Refuge which has stood as a place of safety since 1832. It was built at the instigation of Douglas resident Sir William Hilary, founder of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution. |
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Douglas owes much of its development to the fact that it provides sheltered harbourage from the prevailing winds with Douglas Head and Onchan Head at either end of the two mile sweep of the Bay. The harbour piers are named after Queen Victoria and King Edward VIII, the latter pier being one of the few public monuments to commemorate the brief reign of this monarch. The piers have welcomed millions of tourists to the Isle of Man from many parts of the world but mainly from the industrial areas of northern England and Scotland. They came in the safety of The Isle of Man Steam Packet Company under whose flag more than sixty passenger ships have sailed reflecting the latest in ship design and providing the experience of voyaging in mini-liners. Today, the harbour is protected by a new Breakwater which, in turn, shields the old one which has stood up to easterly gales for over a century. The piers are equipped with link-spans to give easy access for the thousands of cars that arrive annually and for the container lorries that provide the Island with vital supplies. Along the entire sea front run the Douglas Horse Trams which are now the only ones still in existence. They began life in 1872 and they remind us of a more leisurely way of life. Douglas has a modern shopping centre in Strand Street which leads on to the sea front with its hotels and centres of entertainment such as The Gaiety Theatre, now cherished as a gem of Edwardian splendour. Adjacent are the grounds of the Villa Marina with its Royal Hall. A major scheme of refurbishment has ensured that the Villa Marina remains the Island's most important venue for a wide variety of events including entertainments and cultural activities. Along the Douglas promenades, modern developments are creating a gradual change as the Victorian hotels of the last century are either extensively modernised or replaced by new hotels providing the best of accommodation for the tourists of the next century. Behind the seafront can be found other places of interest such as the Manx Museum, the centre of Manx National Heritage and a fascinating treasure-house of the Island's unique history. The new sports facilities available at the National Sports Centre at King George's Park rank high in quality for the enthusiast. Noble's Park provides many sporting activities and leads to the fine new Grandstand from which the world famous TT Motorcycle Races are controlled. Of the Island's population of over 76,000, about 25,000 live within the confines of the town of Douglas while the neighbouring village of Onchan has rapidly grown in recent years and now has a population of over 8,500, most of whom find employment in the capital. Onchan provides a splendid setting for Government House while its church of St. Peter stands on the site of the former church in which William Bligh married Elizabeth Beham in 1781, some years before Bligh set out on the historic voyage in HMS Bounty. The Onchan Park and Stadium provide a wide range of amenities for today's visitors. LAXEY The Manx Electric Railway leads northwards along the coast from its Terminus at Derby Castle, near Summerland. The first section of the railway was begun in 1893 reaching Laxey the following year and, eventually, the eighteen mile track reached Ramsey in 1899. It was a major engineering achievement traversing some of the most picturesque parts of the Island. Laxey station, some eight miles from Douglas, is a hive of activity during the summer months and it is from here that the Snaefell Mountain Railway climbs to the highest point of the Island, Snaefell being 2,036 feet above sea level. This remarkable line took only seven months to construct and is the only electrically-worked mountain railway in Britain. Using the same cares the line has been in operation since 1895. From the summit there are breath-taking views of the Island while the neighbouring coasts of Ireland, Scotland, England and Wales are visible on clear days. Across the valley from the mountain railway can be seen the famous 'Lady Isabella' Water Wheel, reputed to be the largest in the world, and still turning to demonstrate its power. It was designed by a local engineer and was constructed in 1854 to pump water from the flooding mines. The wheel has its a diameter of 72 1/2 feet and its circumference of 228 feet contains 168 buckets to drive the Wheel. The miners were able to go deeper in search of the valuable ores and by 1875 the Laxey Mines were the leading producer of zinc ore in the British Isles, with smaller quantities of lead, copper and silver. now the Wheel and the remains of its associates buildings are preserved as a major piece of industrial archaeology. At the mouth of the Laxey river is a small yachting port with a distinctive Cornish flavour and which was originally built for the exporting of the ores for smelting in north Wales. Since then a promenade has been constructed and the beach is a favourite with visitors, the sheltered bay being ideal for water sports. Continuing from Laxey, the Electric Railway passes some of the more spectacular glens with stops at such places as Dhoon and Ballaglass. Between the railway route and the sea is the little church of Maughold names after St. Machud who was an Irish contemporary of St. patrick. Within the church grounds are the remains of earlier churches (Keeills) and here, too, can be found a marvellous collection of Celtic and Norse grave stones indicating Christian influence from ealiest times. RAMSEY Sheltered beneath the slopes of North Barrule lies the northern town of Ramsey which, with a population of nearly 6,000, is the Island's second largest town. It was here that Queen Victoria and her Consort, Prince Albert, arrived unexpectedly in 1847. Recovering from sea-sickness Queen Victoria remained on the Royal Yacht, but Prince Albert ventured ashore and was taken by local tradesmen to a hill overlooking Ramsey from where the royal visitor admired the panoramic view of the north of the Island. So delighted were the townspeople that they erected the Albert Tower on the spot where the Prince stood. The Tower is the most familiar landmark in the north. Ramsey was also the landing place for the Viking warrior Godred Crovan who was determined to subjugate the Island and make it his kingdom. Two miles inland, on Sky Hill, was fought the most important battle in Manx history which resulted in two hundred years of Viking rule, thus forming the basis of the Manx nation and many of the traditions that continue today. Ramsey is the only town to boast an iron pier which was built in 1886 reaching into Ramsey Bay. It helped Ramsey develop into a favourite resort, but like many of its Victorian contemporaries, the pier is rapidly succumbing to the ravages of time and the sea. King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra landed there in August, 1902, thus helping the town to claim the title "Royal Ramsey". It is through Ramsey harbour that the Island's longest river, the Sulby, enters the sea after cascading through the deep Sulby Valley below the Sulby Reservoir. A slower and more torturous route under the northern foothills leads into the waters of the tidal harbour where there is always plenty of activity with the coming and going of local and visiting yachts, trawlers and coasters. The harbour also has a ship repair and building yard visited by fishing boats from all around the Irish Sea. The Manx Sailing and Yachting Club has its headquarters here from where the Round the Island races are organised. Behind the miscellany of quaint buildings along the quay is the shopping thoroughfare of Parliament Street while the old Market Square leads to the St. Paul's shopping precinct. Nearby is the heated swimming pool while the beaches on either side of the harbour entrance have fine stretches of sand. On the outskirts of Ramsey is the Grove Rural Life Museum, which charmingly displays the furnishing and equipment of a country home of the nineteenth century. Today Ramsey is still the market town of the thriving agricultural community of the north, centred on the village of Andreas. Crossing the harbour is the fine old swing bridge leading to the north shore with its promenade and the Mooragh Park, Ramsey's main attraction for visitors. The Park was created a hundred years ago out of the old river bed and mud flats. With considerable ingenuity forty acres were reclaimed and laid out with footpaths and gardens, sub-tropical plants helping to make a riot of colour in the summer while being able to survive the generally mild winters. The many palms growing here add to the exotic appeal of the Park. There is also a twelve acre lake for sailing and rowing boats. There are plenty of activities for young and not so young which help to make the Mooragh Park a great favourite with visitors and locals alike. Northwards from Ramsey the road traverses some gentle hills before reaching the peaceful village of Bride. It takes its name from St. Bridget, another Irish saint to whom many of the Manx churches are dedicated. Bride Church, at the road junction in the village, was built in 1870 and makes use of stone brought from Scotland during the Ice Ages. The northern extremity of the Island's length of 30 miles is at the Point of Ayre which is just 17 miles away from Burrow Head in Dumfries, Scotland, the nearest point of the British mainland. The Point of Ayre lighthouse is one of five positioned around the Island's hundred miles of coastline. The 100 feet high lighthouse was designed by Robert Stevenson of the famous engineering family and is the lighthouse with the longest continual service which began in 1818. To the west of the lighthouse is the stretch of raised beach known as The Ayres whose sand dunes and beach support a rich and varied plant and bird life. The road along the west side of the Island is the long and fast section of the T.T. Course from Ballacraine passing through the villages of Kirk Michael, Ballaugh and Sulby before arriving in Parliament Square, Ramsey. The church of Kirk Michael contains some of the interesting Manx crosses and one bears the name of Gaut the Scandinavian renowned for his carvings. In recent years hordes of ancient coins and other artefacts have been unearthed in this area. Between Kirk Michael and Ballaugh the road passes Bishop's Court, parts of which date from the fourteenth century and, until recent times, was the residence of the Island's Bishop. Beyond is Ballaugh whose church also has some fine examples of Manx crosses. The road through the village passes over the famous humped-back bridge which is a favourite vantage point for T.T. fans. Another favourite point is the corner at the end of the fast section through Sulby village. From Sulby it is possible to travel inland through the spectacular Tholt-y-Will area where the road climbs steeply, passing the Sulby Reservoir before joining the Snaefell mountain section of the T.T. Course. Access to the popular Wild Life Park can be gained from the T.T. Course between Ballaugh and Sulby. The Wild Life Park has been created out of the boggy area known as the Ballaugh Curraghs, another relic from the Ice Ages. Botanists have been intrigued to find the remains of plant and animal life which today exists only in Arctic regions. The spacious grounds of the Park provide a natural setting for a variety of birds, animals and reptiles. Most popular are the penguins, pelicans, otters and sea lions. The Wildlife Park also takes care of a few of the native Manx Loghtan sheep originally brought to the Isle of Man by the Vikings. This breed sports four to six horns and its warm brown wool was spun, undyed for the making of socks and for the making of cloth for men's suits in the old crofting days PEEL Miles of sandy beaches stretch southwards from the Point of Ayre until the port of Peel is reached, the rocks changing to red sandstone. This predominates in the construction of the ancient Castle and ruined Cathedral on St. Patrick's Isle. Here the first Irish missionaries arrived in the middle of the fifth century. A tall round tower, still standing, was built by the monks as a place of refuge from the marauding Vikings. This little isle was to become a base for Viking settlers and a fort of timber, or pile, was built thus giving Peel its name. Great devastation followed the end of Norse rule and it was the Early English Kings of Man who laid the foundations of the Castle and walls we see today, the oldest parts dating from the end of the fourteenth century. A century earlier work had begun on the Cathedral at the instigation of Symon of Iona who had been appointed Bishop by Olaff II, one of the last Viking Kings of Man. The Cathedral, named after St. German, a former bishop, took over two hundred years to complete but was always in need of repair. The roof was replaced in 1697 but by 1785 the Cathedral had become so dilapidated that it was no longer fit for divine service. In recent years an archaeological 'dig' has attracted world-wide interest. Here has been revealed evidence of continual occupation spanning 2,500 years. Graves of the early Christians contrast with those of the later Viking settlers. One such grave is that of a Viking woman, now known as 'The Lady of Peel' whose remains were found with beads, a cooking spit, shears and workbox. With its sandy beach, breakwater and harbour, Peel has an enchantment of its own. The narrow streets once witnessed the clandestine smuggling activities of the eighteenth century. Today, fishing boats and the accompanying herring gulls are ever present making Peel the centre of the Island's fishing industry. A quota system has seen the export of salted herring to the Continent much reduced in recent years but there are still some to supply the curing houses which produce the famous Manx kipper of unbeatable quality. The 'Story of Mann' is based at Peel and is a major attraction for young and old alike. Constructed with a concentration on audio-visual displays, the centre takes visitors through all aspects of Manx history and folklore. To the south of Peel the coastline changes to one of grandeur as cliffs of the Manx slates rise steeply from the sea and lead to the remotest part of the Isle of Man. The Glen Maye stream has carved a gorge in which is found one of the prettiest glens managed by the Manx Government's Forestry Department. Beyond is the delightful cove of Niarbyl with its 'tail of rocks' resisting the waves. The cove contains an old fisherman's cottage, known as 'Old Tom's', now preserved as a private dwelling. Southwards, Cronk ny Irrey Lhaa with its wild moorlands rises steeply from sea level to its 1,500 feet summit. Its name means 'Hill of the Break of Day', so called because men of the fishing fleet returning to Peel after a night at sea looked for the sunrise over it. The coastline continues until Bradda Head is reached while the Calf of Man can be seen in the distance. PORT ERIN Port Erin was but a tiny fishing village before the advent of tourism saw it rapidly develop into a favourite family holiday resort with its hotels banked on the slopes overlooking the almost circular bay which protects the sandy beach. The remains of a breakwater, built to provide a safe haven for the fishing boats, can still be seen. Built of concrete blocks it survived for ten years until it was destroyed in a particularly fierce storm in 1864. More enduring is the landmark of Milner's Tower on Bradda Head. It was built in 1871 by public subscription as a memorial to the benefactor of Port Erin who did much to help the village fishermen and the poor. William Milner was a famous safemaker from Liverpool and the unusual shape of the Tower represents a key. Today, Port Erin is as popular as ever for those seeking a relaxed holiday with superb coastal scenery and many fine walks. There are fishing trips and excursions to the Calf of Man from the small harbour. Liverpool University has its Marine Biological Station nearby while railway enthusiasts can enjoy the Museum and the Station refurbished in authentic Victorian splendour. South of both Port St. Mary and Port Erin roads lead to the tiny village of Cregneash, where The Manx Museum and National Trust maintain an outdoor Folk Museum, the centre of which is the famous Harry Kelly's Cottage built in the early part of the eighteenth century. The interior of the two rooms and loft is complete with furnishings and objects evocative of the Manx crofting way of life that persisted to the present century. The farmstead is complete with a woodworking shed, smithy and a weaver's cottage where demonstrations are given during the summer months. Cregneash overlooks the Sound which is a treacherous stretch of water separating the Isle of Man and the Calf of Man. The name of the little isle comes from the Scandinavian kalfr meaning 'little island next to a larger island'. The island was once farmed but it is now a bird sanctuary and is administered by the Manx National Trust, wardens occupying the farmhouse during the summer months. Over 120 species of birds have been recorded. Facing south towards the Chicken Rock a modern lighthouse, now fully automatic, stands near the ruins of the former lighthouse dating from 1818. With the departure of the lighthouse keepers the only other human inhabitants are the bird wardens during the summer months. A flock of Loghtan sheep roams the grassy areas and supply wool for the weavers of Cregneash. The only other visitors are those travelling by boat from either Port St. Mary or Port Erin to enjoy the adventure walking on this enchanting isle PORT ST MARY The village of Port St. Mary has a population of 1,500 and was once a major centre of the Island's fishing industry with its own boatyards. Fish processing still continues but Port St. Mary has now become a favourite centre for yachting, with access at all states of the tide. The Isle of Man Yacht Club has its modern headquarters here. The village takes its name from the Chapel of St. Mary which overlooks Chapel Bay with a sheltered beach and excellent sands, making it a popular resort for holidaying families. A marine walk over the rocks leads to the harbour area. One of the finest of all cliff walks leads southwards from Port St. Mary to the Calf of Man, passing the Chasms, impressive deep fissures in the cliffs. The Calf of Man is accessible from 'The Port' and magnificent views of the spectacular cliffs, with myriads of sea birds, can be gained from the sea CASTLETOWN Castletown, with a population of over 3,000 takes its name from the medieval fortress of Castle Rushen and was once the administrative centre and capital of the Island. The splendid keep of local limestone was begun between 1150 and 1200 by the Viking rulers and was used as an alternative retreat to Peel Castle. Much of the glory of the castle today belongs to the fourteenth century when appointees of Edward III of England enlarged the keep and added the octagonal curtain wall with towers at the corner. Later the Seventh Earl of Derby, as Lord of Mann, built a residence in 1644 within the surrounding wall. On the south wall of the keep is a one-fingered clock said to have been donated by Queen Elizabeth I. It overlooks the Parade where soldiers of the garrison used to drill. In recent years Castle Rushen has undergone a complete scheme of renovation using traditional techniques. The once empty rooms within the keep are now alive again with colourful and vibrant displays which tell the story of the Castle from medieval times to the seventeenth century St. JOHNS The village of St John’s lies not only at the geographical heart of the Isle of Man, but also at the heart of the Island's sense of nationhood. Since Viking times, St John’s (named after St John the Baptist, whose festival is mid-summer's day) has been the focal point of Tynwald Day on the 5th July. The ceremony on this Manx National Day has continued unchanged for more than 1,000years. The annual outdoor sittings of Tynwald, the Manx Parliament, date back to the 8th century when the Norse rulers of the island introduced their own system of government called ‘Thing-vollr’. No other parliament in the world has such a long unbroken record. The main focal point for this ceremony is Tynwald Hill, situated in the centre of St John’s. This four-tiered artificial hill, reputed to be constructed from soil brought from the 17 parishes, symbolises the whole island. The hill is twenty feet (3.6m) high, while the lowest tier has a circumference of 256 feet (78m). Tynwald Hill faces St John’s Chapel and the two are joined by a 360 feet (110m) long processional way. St John’s the Baptist Chapel itself, built in 1849, has been constructed on the site of former chapel and an ancient keeill. The chapel has special seating arrangements to accommodate the Tynwald court, held on 5th July every year. Tynwald Day is also the Manx national holiday and alongside the pageantry and formal ceremony there is a fair field directly behind Tynwald Hill and displays of traditional music and dancing. At the rear of this field is one of the island’s real hidden delights - St John’s Arboretum, which is also the National Park. This beautiful and relaxing leafy pasture has been planted with trees given from all of the Manx parishes in 1979 to mark the Millennium of Tynwald. It’s an ideal location for a picnic, but don’t forget to take extra bread in your basket as the Arboretum at St John’s contains a lake with some rather hungry ducks! Situated at the west end of the island’s central valley, St John’s village has developed as a result of its location. Firstly, it is at the crossroads between Douglas-Peel and Ramsey-Castletown, and when the railway age came to the Island, St John’s was the junction where the Isle of Man Railway and Manx Northern Railway meet. Similar to Crewe, the coming of the railways in 1870’s was the catalyst for growth for this sleepy little Manx village. The steam railway from Douglas to Peel and Ramsey sadly closed in 1968, but the trackbed still remains as a heritage trail for walkers. The almost level former railway line is ideal for a stroll though the Manx countryside. The hedges on the way contain main rare wild flowers and unusual species of butterflies. For the more enthusiastic walker, who feels energetic enough to climb Slieau Whallian, the steep wooded hill which lies to the south of St. John's, can enjoy splendid views of the village, the St. John the Baptist chapel, the processional way and the four-tiered artificial mound known as Tynwald Hill. Slieau Whallian’s summit features blocks of Galloway granite deposited by ice-age glaciers. The hill is also well known in Manx folklore as the ‘Witches Hill’. Suspected witches were placed in spiked barrels and rolled down the slope. If the poor victim was still alive at the bottom of the hill, they were judged to be witches and put to death at the stake! However, there is no hard evidence to support this gruesome story. On the northern edge of the village is the Tynwald Mill, a traditional woollen Mill dating from 1703, which in its day, was the largest on the island, but now the whole area has been developed into a modern craft centre. There are more than thirty shops, two cafés and children’s playground at Tynwald Mills set in beautiful surroundings with ample free parking. The shops at Tynwald Mill are always popular destination with both locals and tourists alike Acknowledgement: "Isle of Man Scenic Guide" by The Manx Experience |
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